E ka moku nui lehua i ka ua mao ʻole, aloha nō kākou. To the vast verdant land of lehua in the never ceasing rain, greetings to you all. I am currently a senior undergraduate student at the University of Hawaiʻi studying Hawaiian Language and Hawaiian Studies. Once I complete my bachelor's degree I plan on entering graduate school to receive my master's in Hawaiian Language where I will research linguistics in Hawaiian Language to expand on the teaching styles of Kealaleo to incorporate linguistic explanation of the Hawaiian Language. I also plan on studying Hawaiian lauhala weaving or pandanous weaving to provide explanation and documentation of patterns and styles throughout the archipelago.
On December 18th, 2023, Dr. Andy Reilly, Jordan Antonio, and I, Makana Gomes, embarked on a research trip to Hilo, Hawaiʻi to conduct interviews regarding plantation-era clothing with discussions surrounding muʻumuʻu, the aloha shirt, and rice bag clothing. While in Hilo, we were graciously shown the lay of the land by a sansei Hilo native of Japanese descent by the name of Harvey Tajiri who I affectionately call the “Governor of Hilo.” Harvey’s knowledge of the history of Hilo is surely unsurpassed by no other, which could be afforded to his community-oriented mindset; this mindset of community is an integral part of what makes the community of Hilo so unique. The folks that we interviewed were also long-time residents of Hilo with deep roots intertwined within the fabrics of Hilo and hand sewn into an elaborate muʻumuʻu, if you will, which resembled the likes of muʻumuʻu attributed to Kamehameha Garments. Kamehameha Garments is one of the iconic brands of muʻumuʻu that has almost and we were able to see the location of the original shop as well as some of the garments to rightfully acknowledge and honor this brand that was built upon the laborious meticulous work of Japanese issei as they produced beautiful muʻumuʻu and aloha shirts. Another highlight of the trip was going to the Hawaiian immersion school Ka ʻŪmeke Kāʻeo located in Keaukaha, Hilo where we talked to the 12th grade class under the instruction of Kumu Kaimana Kawaha about the fashion book Dr. Reilly and I are working on entitled Aloha Chic, wherein we will provide a historical recount of Hawaiian fashion and culture from pre-contact 1778 through the unification of the Hawaiian Islands, through the monarchy era, plantation era, statehood era, and ending in modern day Hawaiian fashion. This was a valuable experience because we were able to connect to Native Hawaiian students who have a direct lineal connection to these garments which have been woven into Hawaiian identity and culture to become an undeniable part of Hawaiʻi’s culture.
Makana Gomes (l) and Jordan Antonio participated in a research trip to Hilo led by Dr. Reilly of the FDM program. Dr. Reilly is researching the fashion history of Hilo.
By Makana Pohākalamalunaokoʻolau Gomes