As we ring in the new year and clear out the old, one might want to pause and consider a revival of something from the past: the resurgence of the muʻumuʻu in our fashion discussions and maybe a new addition to your closet…or a kept treasure
Muʻumuʻu month started in 2014, when Shannon Hiramoto posted photos of herself wearing a different muʻumuʻu every day in January. She soon gained an Instagram following of emulators who are coined the month a “muʻuvement.” Just type #muumuumonth for a glimpse into the variations of styles and colors that women of all ages are proudly sharing. Some are now wearing a muʻumuʻu as an expression of their cultural and ancestral identities, reflecting on the history of the garment.
In the 1820’s, Christian missionaries created the muʻumuʻu as a modified version of their own garments de rigueur, to cover up the body and replace the immodest paʻu or skirt that the native Hawaiian women made by wrapping tapa around their waists. Constructing the muʻumuʻu out of leftover muslin, they loosened the bodice and shortened the sleeves creating a kind of slip intended to be worn under the more formal holokū. Our UH Historic Costume Collection houses and catalogs over 100 muʻumuʻu from donors, and has displayed them generationally through student exhibits. “The Collection” serves as a learning lab for students to learn about being a curator: developing a collection that informs and inspires, as well as the preservation of those garments.
Adaptability is key in the popularity and longevity of the muʻumuʻu. Materials range from sturdy cotton palaka to bright polyester prints, to silk and sateen. Muʻumuʻu are form-fitting or loose and flowy; shorty, tea-length or don a train. Ruffle it, belt it, pleat it, amplify its skirt… there’s a muʻumuʻu for every shape, age or occasion.
Looking in the rear-view mirror, the interest in vintage garments and accessories keeps growing as fashion often emulates its past trends. The sustainable and zero-waste movements are popularizing the resale websites for not only budget-shoppers, but for those searching for that one-of-a-kind or designer piece that eluded them. Promoting eco-conscious choices and wider ranges of sizes, the muʻumuʻu might be the perfect garment to appeal to the masses. Not only can you find one boldy re-imagined by Hawaii’s designers and showcased in NYC runways, but you can find one as near as your mother’s closet.
Muʻumuʻu are not the most boundary-pushing garments, but they have an aesthetic appeal to many of us who want to “feel good in our own skin,” or maybe “take a walk in someone else's shoes” for a change. Timeless and yet nostalgic, muʻumuʻu can invoke a personal, emotional connection or uplift your mood, much like a Monet or Van Gogh painting. Wearing one will push you forward and draw attention, but you already felt confident when you slipped it on this morning. Don’t limit yourself to January to enjoy and share your fashion expression of the muʻumuʻu. Long live the muʻuvement! – Jacqueline Tani